In the 18th century, some Native Americans produced ‘soda ash’ to leaven their breads. They shared their methods for producing the chemical leven with Colonial cooks of European descent who had previously only used yeast.
The first step was to produce potash lye or potassium hydroxide, by mixing water with the ashes of various broadleaf trees (elms, beech and maple) or burned brachen fern. The resulting weak potash lye solution was drawn off and used in the production of soap and hominy.
Today, processed lye is used in the production of foods around the world such as Scandinavia’s lutfisk and olives from the Mediterranean. It is also used in glazes to add crispness to some German baked goods like Laugenbrötchen and pretzels. There is a caustic version for industrial use, and for making products like oven cleaner and Draino!
After the lye solution was drained off, the remaining dark sludge was boiled down to form the potash or black salt. Potassium-rich, it was commonly used as a fertilizer and became a valuable trade commodity in the United States and England. The element potassium derives its name from the word potash.
The potash was refined in a kiln at a high temperature to burn off the impurities. The resulting white salt or ‘pearl ash’ (potassium carbonate or salt of tartar) was water soluble, and formed a strong alkaline solution. When a small amount was mixed with a mild acidic solution like sour milk, honey or molasses, carbon dioxide bubbles formed, causing quick breads and cakes to rise.
‘Pearl ash’ was in use around 1750 and said to be difficult to dissolve into batters. It also reacted poorly when the baked goods contained ample fat, creating a soapy taste. After all, soap was produced in those days by combining potash lye solution with fats.
In 1846, New Englanders John Dwight and his brother-in-law, Dr. Austin Church, began the manufacture of bicarbonate of soda. It was sold under the Cow Brand, and called, Dwight’s Saleratus or ‘aerated salt.’ The cow signified the use of sour milk with the soda. The saleratus was packed into small paper bags by hand. Saleratus of baking soda eventually became the Arm & Hammer brand of baking soda we are familiar with today.
Baking power was being commercially produced in England around 1840; eventually the product found favor in America. Baking powder is a combination of alkaline sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and an acid salt like cream of tartar. This alkali/acid combination is necessary for the release of carbon dioxide gas bubbles to make the batter rise.
For centuries, the Hopi of New Mexico have used sage ash to color their remarkable bread staple, piki. The blue-grey, tissue-thin sheets are made from freshly ground meal of blue corn mixed with water and ash. The thin batter is baked on a large stone then pulled off and folded into long, delicate crisp rolls.
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A TASTE OF CAROLINA 
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